By Michael Rosato and Liv Ogier // Photos by Michael Rosato
For some time now, Zach Galla has been considered one of the most promising up-and-coming climbers in North America. More recently, that conversation has shifted—he’s now being recognized as one of the best climbers in the world, a status underscored by his recent ascent of Megatron (V17).
Over the past year, his resume has taken a sharp upward turn, with ascents of benchmark V17 boulders like Return of the Sleepwalker and Shaolin. But just as impressive is the foundation he’s been committed to building over the last few years in the V15 and V16 range, namely with repeats of notoriously difficult and rarely climbed lines such as The Process (V16), Hypnotized Minds (V16), Devilution (V16), and The Singularity (V15). Zach possesses an undeniable drive not just to climb hard grades but to master the craft. To build a foundation deep enough that when the time came to step into the highest level, he’d be ready.
We caught up with Zach right after his ascent of Megatron to unpack what it took to climb one of the hardest boulders in the world, what continues to drive him forward, and the music that carried him through the process.
Megatron
Michael Rosato: For those who haven't seen the boulder, how would you describe it? What makes it so special?
Zach Galla: [Megatron] is an overhanging roof arete that climbs more like a roof than a traditional arete. It follows the hillside; the angle of the boulder is actually quite similar to the angle of the hill. You’re essentially climbing the bottom side of this massive feature. It’s unique because both sides are mostly blanked out, so it looks very singular and obvious when you walk up to it.
It also has a very cool, prominent break point right in the middle. That big hold where you finish the crux of the low start is also the starting feature for the stand start (Tron V14). I was really impressed by the aesthetics. I always knew it was cool because of the difficulty, but I didn't realize how inspired I’d be until I saw it in person. It’s a sick line.
Michael: It definitely has that presentation. It feels like it has everything: dimension, crimps, and slopers. Give us a breakdown of the different sections of the climb.
Zach: As you pull on, it starts with a seven-move V15. The intro is easier than the singular crux move, but you get straight into some real climbing immediately. The first few moves feel awkward and "un-fun" at first, but they grew on me as I got them dialed. It’s very finicky, body-position-oriented climbing to get established on a right-hand crimp. Then, you have two "thuggy" moves: falling into an undercling, a hard foot-walk, and then that iconic, big "slam-back" move to the start hold.
That’s the "business" of the low start. The movement style stays similar as you climb into the stand, but the hold types change. Things get much more open-handed. The end of the boulder is actually better suited for warmer conditions, while the intro needs it to be cold. I found the ideal balance was having it just cold enough to get through the intro.
The interesting thing about the breakdown is that even when I was dialed, I was falling everywhere. Usually, on a project, you fall on the same crux move over and over. With Megatron, I was falling in every section. It actually made it more enjoyable because it wasn't like beating my head against a single move; every go felt like a mystery, almost like sport climbing.
Mindset
Michael: People seem to have different cruxes on Megatron. Since you were so solid on the low section, what was the standout crux for you?
Zach : Objectively, the hardest part is likely that three-move link at the bottom: reaching to the crimp, falling into the undercling, the foot-walk, and the big lie-back. However, since that’s early on, I became very consistent at it.
My "redpoint crux" of the full line was definitely the big bump move on the Tron section of the stand—grabbing that small intermediate and making the big right-hand move. I fell there the most. I thought once I stuck that move I’d go to the top immediately, but it took me about five times sticking that move from the bottom before I actually sent. Even after that move, it’s still about V12 to the top. It wasn't a guaranteed finish.
Michael: What initially drew you to it?
Zach: It was almost random. I came to Colorado in October to try Hypnotized Minds. After that went well, I had a few extra days in Boulder, and Megatron felt like the obvious thing to test. I went up alone on a warm day and actually sent the stand start that first session. That gave me the confidence to come back for the full line. It was the "perfect storm": aesthetic, legendary factor, and a style that suited me perfectly while still being at my absolute limit.
Process and Regression
Liv Ogier: How many sessions did it take in total? Walk us through the progression.
Zach: My first session was spaced out from the rest. Once I came back [to Colorado], I made quick work of the individual moves at the bottom. Progress was very linear; there were no major "breakthrough" days, just slowly adding a move or getting a link more consistent.
In total, it took around eight sessions—definitely between six and ten. It was linear until the day Michael was there, and I fell on the very last move. After that, I actually regressed for a session. That made me nervous. I started to get in my head, worrying that I had already climbed at my maximum potential on the day I almost sent, and that it might spiral into a long-term struggle.
Liv: What changed between that "regression" session and the send? Was there a mental breakthrough?
Zach: I took a double rest day to heal my skin. The session after the regression felt rusty; the conditions weren't great, and my energy was low. I had been going in with a "work" mindset, trying to just "finish it off," which was a bad attitude.
But I’ve realized something recently from repeating hard boulders like The Grand Illusion. Bouldering is often held back by a mental attachment to the outcome. For the send go on Megatron, I tried a mental trick: I convinced myself I had already done the boulder.
I’d seen Aiden Roberts talk about "losing attachment to the outcome" in his Mastery video. Since I had done all the sections of Megatron so many times, it was easy to envision the send. By convincing myself it was already done, I removed the pressure of "trying to send it for the first time." It allowed me to stay focused on the present moment.
Tactics and Rough Landings
Michael: Were there any specific tactics or gear—beyond a "Tokyo Boost" plug—that made the difference?
Zach: Actually, yes. I wanted a stiff shoe for the climb. There are small, edgy feet that you have to load heavily while on underclings. I also modified my shoes. There’s a heel hook at the top that catches on the very back of the shoe. The rubber on my normal shoes was too high, so I used a heat gun and a razor blade to shave the rubber down, creating a lower edge. It allowed me to keep my knee straight rather than articulating it outward, which made a massive difference.
Regarding conditions: I found that using a fan on my hands made my skin too hard and increased my chance of "numbing out" at the top. On the send, it was actually about 60°F—warmer than I’d usually like—but that helped me keep blood flow in my fingers.
I also used a beetroot supplement called Sendure-X. It’s a vasodilator. I started taking it specifically to combat the "numb-out" factor. By the time you get to the end of those 20 moves, you’ve forced all the blood out of your fingers from the high pressure. You can't feel what you’re holding. The supplement helped keep the blood moving so I could actually feel the friction at the finish.
Michael: What about the landing? Its pretty scary.
Zach: It really is. The landing has two tiers. Once you hit the big side-pull rail at the top and walk your feet, half your body is over a drop-off. It’s not a safe "butt-landing" situation; the height is just enough that if you fall, you’ll rotate more than 90 degrees and likely land on your face or head. Getting used to that landing took a lot of mental work.
The Grade and the Future
Liv: You’ve done three V17s (9A) now. How does Megatron compare, and where does it fit in the grade?
Zach: The 9A grade is still new and a bit confusing. I think V15 is a massive, broad grade, while V16 feels narrower. Megatron is, by far, the hardest boulder I’ve done in terms of the effort required during the send.
Interestingly, I sent it faster than Shaolin or Return of the Sleepwalker. Shaolin took me twice as long, but that was because of the low-percentage, "accuracy" nature of the moves. I was never "tired" when I fell on Shaolin. With Megatron, I was physically blasted. It feels like a very solid V17. It’s the first one where I can confidently say, "I have definitely done the grade."
Michael: You’ve spent the last couple of years seemingly building a massive "pyramid" of V15s and V16s. Was that intentional?
Zach: Half intentional, half just where my psych was. I wanted to make sure I was a solid V16 climber before testing myself on 17s. Growing up in the South (USA), that pyramid mindset is very common—you work your way through a boulder field. Now that I’ve built that base, I feel much more well-rounded.
Liv: So, what’s next?
Zach: I’ve reached a point where I want to stop repeating other people's achievements. I’ve started feeling a bit of "imposter syndrome" as a pro climber just doing repeats. Next season, I want to focus on first ascents—finding and projecting new, cutting-edge lines. I want to explore things that have a bit of mystery to them.
Liv: Any "life list" boulders left?
Zach: I’d like to go back for No One Mourns the Wicked and Living Large. Burden of Dreams and Alphane are on the list eventually. But honestly, after this season, I feel like I’ve closed the chapter on the "childhood dream" classics. I’m ready for the next thing.
Music and Motivation
Michael: I wanted to ask about the music. What were you listening to during the Megatron process? Were there specific tracks or artists that kept you hyped, or what are you into right now?
Zach: I’ve been on an old-school Southern rap kick for a while. It’s funny how my listening habits change depending on where I am in the session. For training or getting hyped for a send go, I usually lean into a blend of new and older rap.
Lately, it's been old Gucci Mane—I’ve been listening to his song One Minute a lot. Since doing Hypnotized Minds, I’ve also been on a big Three 6 Mafia kick, listening to a lot of Project Pat (Raised in the Projects) and some DJ Screw (Sailing to the South). That vibe gets me motivated and the energy levels up
Michael: Do you prefer keeping that high energy during the whole process?
Zach: Actually, at a certain point in the process of trying something hard, I find I need to calm myself down. My genres switch up a lot. As I’m leaving a session, I’ve been listening to a low-key House playlist that Ben Burk got me into; it helps me zone out and reflect on the drive back.
Zach's Megatron Playlist
If I’m having a day with less motivation, my playlist gets very eclectic. I’ve been listening to Jim Croce (Walking Back to Georgia, I Got a Name), Billy Walker (Funny How Time Slips Away), Charlie Rich (Rolling with the Flow), and the Marshall Tucker Band (Can't You See). Those are my "cruising around Colorado looking at the mountains" songs.
I really try to capture the specific energy I need for the moment—whether it’s training, performing, or the post-session comedown. But most of the time, if I’m getting hyped, it’s old Gucci.
Final Thoughts
Michael: If you had to sum up the Megatron experience in one sentence, what would it be?
Zach: It was a massive confidence builder in my performance; the linear progression was extremely fulfilling, and the send itself was an intense, "blasted" experience that I haven't had in a long time.
